As nature becomes more of a force to be reckoned with, its influence can be seen in the latest platinum jewellery designs from around the world.
Italian and French collections reaffirm platinum’s bond with nature. The naturally white metal, with its flowing forms and lustrous surface, evokes both rippling water and the gossamer-like breath of air. The animal kingdom has been explored with designs ranging from the simple, to the geometric to the baroque. Droplets, stars, animals and floral motifs are an explosion of form, light and lines.
Still inspired by nature, the German design approach is to create modern, elegant and expressive jewellery that takes on the personality of its wearer.
Naturally white, pure platinum captures the essence of nature perfectly. Pearls and diamonds are combined with platinum for simple, modern jewellery. This can be seen in the collections from the United Kingdom where platinum motifs such as shells, stones, hearts and flowers featuring diamonds, create a cool, carefree look. No longer the preserve of cocktail rings, coloured gemstones from rose and yellow diamonds to emeralds and rubies are now found in engagement rings, bracelets and necklaces. A desire to return to traditional “heirloom” jewellery, is reflected in the re-emergence of the delicate technique of filigree that perfectly shows off platinum’s ductility.
It is the art and architecture of exotic cultures that is the inspiration behind the designs dominating the jewellery scene in the United States. Platinum has unique qualities that allow designers to create intricate, lightweight and extremely graceful designs with a combination of polished, matte, smooth and worked surfaces. The luminous, white metal perfectly sets off diamonds and precious stones, and this can be seen in pierced bracelets, long chains with pendants and precious earrings.
It is thoughts of the future, where everything can be perfect and harmonious that has influenced innovative jewellery by Chinese designers and manufacturers. Necklaces, pendants and earrings feature motifs inspired by the universe, stars and nature.
In India, platinum jewellery collections feature designs with winding, structured, natural forms that are a declaration of the wearer’s individual style. Jewellery goes beyond creativity achieving a look that is unique, yet adapted to Indian culture, lifestyle and customs.
Japan sees a return to very feminine floral, snowflake and moon motifs. Platinum station chains, where the stages of a woman’s life are marked with floral designs or coloured stones, continue to be popular. Diamonds, pink and yellow stones are making a comeback with rings and bracelets increasingly featuring pink sapphires, rubies and emeralds.
Platinum, regarded by some as the fifth element of nature, is 95% pure, 30 times more rare than gold and is the most enduring precious metal. Having come from deep within it, platinum is going back to nature.
(Friday, 6 November 2009) | jewels
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