Impalpable and metropolitan, sophisticated and full of contrasts, the Mauro Grifoni women’s collection for s/s 2010 is assertive and contemporary. 90s echoes cohabit with nomadic notes, while 80s nods take new, unexpected ways. The result is a non-predictable, idiosyncratic style, ready to mold on each woman’s personality, highlighting it.
The silhouette is liquid. Elongated, strong-shouldered jackets, kimono dusters and cape-waistcoats, made of fluid yet dense materials, are mixed with the new trousers: straight-hipped and low-crotched, or high-waisted, with cummerbunds, and a pleated crotch. Modular elements of the wardrobe, tops and dresses, either in jersey or not, reveal the body, softly. Long dresses and pleated skirts mixed with leather or fabric jackets add a gipsy touch, giving new meaning to staid notions.
The color palette is high on contrasts: calm hues of white, dove grey and military green, together with classic black, burst into sudden flashes of electric blue, salmon pink, magenta and avion. Animal prints and allover star motifs on fil coupè lurex contribute a hint of pop irony.
Materials are sophisticated: cotton and iron with a permanent crinkle effect, jersey in different weights, micro-patterned stretch cotton in off-kilter hues, stone-washed muslins.
A vision of femininity that is singular, and intensely individualistic.
(Wednesday, 18 November 2009) | womenswear
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