Ermanno Scervino: the gown becomes contemporary in the art of pleating

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The gown becomes contemporary in the art of pleating.
Fabric becomes three-dimensional in a play of impalpable flights and transparencies, mapping out new geometries and speaking of the femininity of the future.
Shirts, shorts, skirts, polo shirts, trench coats: tailoring and equestrian style. The latest Scervino collection interprets the new look by borrowing from the must-haves of the male wardrobe, evoking turn-of-the-century atmospheres in a refined and modern elegance. Thus the deconstructed menʼs shirt enters the womenʼs collection and becomes a gown.
Dazzling white holds sway while dark brown becomes the new black. The colour interrupts and appears like surprising, full light. Persian blue, ochre and nude take up the characteristic colourways of the maison.
The super-light leather, in milk-coloured plongé nappa, Swiss cotton poplin and snow-white organza are the true stars of the collection.
Evanescent, light fabrics bonded with macramé that underscore a femininity just waiting to be discovered are matched with technical fabrics and materials of a typically male rigour.
Plays of pleated folds for jabots, flounces, cravats, dickeys, ribbings, asymmetric necklines and shy geometrical transparencies give each outfit an elegant new personality. Decisive interweaves and engravings meld with summer fabrics, underscoring tattoo designs and ethnic prints.
For evening and day wear, dresses are short and show off the legs as the true stars of the show.
And then again corset-gowns and rounded volumes with crinoline effects alternate with trench coats clasped at the waist with broad belts flaunting Bakelite buckles and par dessous of a vaguely retro flavour.
The collection is rounded off by a range of small accessories: belts, bags and shoes that embody the Ermanno Scervino must-haves for the coming spring-summer season.

(Thursday, 23 September 2010) | Milan woman Spring/Summer 2011


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