The Ermanno Scervino man goes to the office with a battered briefcase, snitched from Dad, but impeccable in tailored double overcoats worn over the super-light down-duvets which will become next season’s “inner warmth”.
He manages to play down the fatigue of the working day, clad in tailored waistcoats that embrace immaculate white shirts clasped by ties, or enwrapped in time-worn denim shirts. And he plays on the adroit melding of different prints.
In free time he sports a parka, albeit never déjà vu being double with knit elements, padded in technical fabric backed with astrakan fake fur, or in chevron knit with linings in tailored fabrics.
The leitmotif of the collection: knit-stitch creating a “fur effect” that morphs into a discreet accessory or wraps the collars and revers of the camel coats and the feather-soft jacquard sweaters.
For evening wear, dinner jackets in metallic knit with satin revers, velvet jackets edged in nappa plongé with incorporated waistcoat embroidered in petit point.
The collection is rounded off by a proposal of beatle boots, ankle boots with fur and lots of little accessories.
A range of exclusive fabrics designed by the Maison, like those of an old tailoring flavour: houndstooth, chevron, Prince of Wales check; backed wools, ultra-light technical fabric with Prince of Wales print; the knit fabric of some of the destructured jackets and the cardigans.
Military blankets get a novel lease of life in the new tailored overcoats and parkas with visible selvedges and raw edges, bonded with knit-stitch creating a “fur effect”.
The hand-knit sweaters flaunt jacquard or geometrical designs worked in relief.
colours shades of grey and camel; blues from china to denim, black juxtaposed with taupe and military green.
(Monday, 17 January 2011) | Milan man Fall/Winter 11/12
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