"The spirit of my brand has always been about a contemporary attitude that does not forsake an appreciation for tradition, quality and craft," says John Varvatos. "For this collection inspiration came from the city of New York, with its seamless juxtaposition of the old and the new: a place where Central Park and the Guggenheim, the Chrysler building and the Statue of Liberty melt into one, creating a unique urban texture. The show begins with an animated film of a young man’s journey through this magical city, exploring its amazing past with a constant eye to its present modernity and its future. The collection expresses the same connection between old-school savoir-faire and a contemporary way of being, all condensed in a precise, timeless message"
Silhouette. Softly precise....The look is clean and nonchalant, elegant and easy. The accent is on single pieces as building blocks of the outfits: trademark layering leaves way to a restrained take on dressing up that is soulful as opposed to stark.
Jackets and outerwear. Textured and light....Reverse cutaway jackets and coats with leather details completely devoid of any filling create a smooth, dynamic line. Short coats have the easy softness of a knit, but are in fact tailored. Suit jackets, either single or double breasted, button up asymmetrically, with a sophisticated effect. Subtle details alter the aspect of wardrobe staples: a zipper running along the raglan of a trench coat sleeve, grommets on sleeve cuffs, a leather multi wrap belt on the pea coat. Vests add a gentlemanly touch.
Knitwear. Chunky yet weightless....Knitwear is the key element of the pure and individual look. Sweaters turn into a way of being and are used either as outerwear or not: cold-dyed wool and cashmere jumpers and zippered coats, tricot short coats in mixes of fine and chunky yarns, hombre alpaca sweaters; light knitted jackets in morphing patterns.
Trousers. Relaxed and easy....Tailored pants have a new line: the articulated knee and a small tab at the hem allows them to be worn easily inside or outside of boots.
Leather. Roughly precious....Long or curly haired burnished shearling is used for short coats and vests worn on top of suits. Brushed calfskin blusons with a pony skin effect have a precise, militaristic allure.
Shirts. Elongated and elegant....Meant to be worn outside of trousers, even with suits and vests, wing collared shirts are longer on the front, with a reverse cutaway effect, creating a soulful counterpoint to the look.
Fabrics. Unique and innovative....As ever for John Varvatos, touch is as important as sight. Fabrics are textured, brushed, intensely textural, adding a layer of intensity and sophistication to the look: mixes of wool and alpaca, brushed velvet, burnished wool.
Colors. Urban and melting....Organic shades of oatmeal, grey and chocolate; military olive. The denseness of black softens in mix with neutrals.
Accessories. ...Leather sleeves that can be worn on top of suits and coats, adding a tough touch. Fingerless gloves. Shoes and boots with sturdier look and a chunky heel. Knit and fabric hats with a metal wire inside the brim. Washed calfskin or corduroy duffels with sterling silver chains.
(Saturday, 14 January 2012) | Milan man Fall/Winter 12/13
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