For Fall-Winter 2012/2013, Bottega Veneta presents a series of taut, composed looks that combine precise proportions with a lean, sinewy silhouette. Shapes are close to the body, with narrow shoulders, tapered sleeves, and pants cut to elongate the line of the leg.
Shoes are integral to the look, designed to extend the long, straight silhouette.
The exacting composition of each look conveys a rigor that is underscored by a rich, dark palette anchored in black, espresso, navy, tourmaline, and blue-green Bering.
Deep shades of maroon, plum, and gray add dimension while neutrals like Gainsborough, a muted gray-beige, provide contrast. Classic men’s wear fabrics and combinations suggest historical inspirations that have been abstracted, now several degrees removed from the source.
Patterns are traditional in origin, unusual in execution, as in overprinted micro-checks and exceptionally subtle stripes and herringbone. There are worsted and woolen fabrics of varying weights, sturdy cotton twill and denim, and knits ranging from merino and alpaca to cashmere.
Exclusive washes and innovative finishes characterize the leathers in the collection, including nappa, goatskin, buffalo, and Crosta suede.
Bags are soft, roomy, and easy, with the unstudied sophistication of pieces designed for practical ends. Sharp, slim ties enhance the vertical aspect of the silhouette.
Then there are the shoes, which are long, high, and handcrafted of unusual mixes of materials and colors.
“We took a different approach this season, exploring a look that is completely designed from the shoes to the jacket,” explains Creative Director Tomas Maier. “For this to work, every proportion must be perfectly calibrated, not just the breadth of the shoulder and the length of the jacket but also the width of the sleeve, the length of the fly, and the shape of the shoe. It’s a very buttoned-up look, but with room for individual interpretation.”
(Sunday, 15 January 2012) | Milan man Fall/Winter 12/13
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