Metropolis. Glass office blocks. Skyscrapers. The city is the ideal scenario for the Max Mara Fall-Winter 2012-13 fashion show, which brings together a series of contrasting, alluring yet coherent influences, tipping the wink to the cult films of Fritz Lang, or Fassbinder’s Querelle, combined with sophisticated Erté-style atelier looks and the atmospheres of the twenties and Bauhaus rationalism.
All of this is evident in the details and the colours that give a gutsy look to the collection, designed for the strong, determined woman, like Emmeline Pankhurst and the suffragettes, for the woman who dares to wear items with a rigorous, innovative shape, where the dropped waist is highlighted by inserts in nappa leather or crocodile print, or leather half-belts that enhance the military aplomb of the tailored duffle and toggle coats.
Made in gorgeous materials such as angora, alligator dévoré knit and the whole range of fabrics you expect from Max Mara (camel hair, loden melton, crêpe wool, pinstripes and hand-finished double cashmere with the felted appearance of military fabrics), virtually all the items on the catwalk have two sides to them: essential and minimalist from the front, they offer a surprising view from the back thanks to the cocoonish volumes, blouson effects and sophisticated “boule-back” couture looks.
Appearing together are fluid sailor-stripe palazzo-pyjama pants (sometimes with crystal Art Déco tassels), calf-length skirts and trousers with parachute-style gathered hems and tailored shorts. These are also joined by many Max Mara classics given a fresh new twist, like the iconic camel coat, in an original new jumpsuit guise.
The colours: black and white, which appear in graphic patterns, Prince-of-Wales and hounds tooth checks and stripes, army green, greys, camel and kasha. Also on the catwalk is the new “Ali” bag, in crocodile print with zip, plus compensé booties and Mary Jane shoes in silver mirrored leather.
(Thursday, 23 February 2012) | Milan woman Fall/Winter 12/13
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