NYFW: True to the signature aesthetic of the Emerson collection

Designer Jackie Fraser-Swan returned to the tents for her fifth show at Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week, presenting her Spring 2014 collection on September 8th at 9 pm at Lincoln Center.

This season, Fraser-Swan imagined that "A group of punk rock kids crashed a private garden on the Upper East Side where the Ramones were playing a secret show ."

True to the signature aesthetic of the Emerson collection, Fraser-Swan mixes punk elements with the contrast of elegant femininity, the ultimate clash of two worlds.

As she describes, "I often feel like I am caught in the middle of these two worlds…I work in the fashion industry, I adore Chanel and I am a suburban Mom of four- but I also love getting tattoos and going to punk shows whenever I can! I have been in love with punk/hardcore music since I was 15 years old, and that music has had a major impact on who I am and what I stand for." The "Emerson by JFS" girl is not afraid to be herself or stand out in a crowd, she is intelligent and can think for herself.  She is a leader, not a follower. As Fraser-Swan's distant relative Ralph Waldo Emerson believed: Non-Conformity, Positivity, and Self-Reliance.

The Spring 2014 collection features three custom designed prints: Garden Gate, Allium Flower Field and Painted Hounds Tooth.

The Garden Gate is the main focal point of the collection inspiration and comes in both lightweight silk/cotton and a bottom weight silk crepe; styles include pleated dresses, a shift dress with exposed side zippers and two-way center back zipper, straight leg pant w/contrast side panels, a bomber jacket, and a gorgeous full length pleated gown w/a fuchsia satin face organza combo.

A stunning purple laser-cut leather Ivy Leaves group is shown in several silhouettes, including a moto jacket, t-shirt, three-tier skirt, asymmetrical two layer skirt, and dresses.

Additional fabrics in the collection include cotton, silk, silk crepe, silk organza, satin face organza, silk chiffon, cotton/cashmere and knit jersey.

The color palettec consists of black, white, purple, fuchsia, sky blue, greens,  and yellows. New featured styles include the "Emerson Punks" hoodie, pant, bomber jacket and skirt. These pieces are unique and special because the fabric is a cotton/cashmere blend "sweat shirt" material in purple and black- custom embellished with the "Emerson by JFS" "E" logo, and Ralph Waldo Emerson Quote "Punk Patches."

Fraser-Swan's favorite flower inspired the Allium Flower Field, a whimsical and fun print in a lightweight silk/cotton, often combined with sheer black organza in a "paneled" effect.  Silhouettes include a shift dress w/collar, "Paneled" tops, dresses and skirts, as well as a t-shirt and a button-down shirt with contrast yoke/collar/placket. The Painted Houndstooth  group features a silk crepe fabric with white as the background, layered with black and purple, designed in fun silhouettes including a raglan tee, tank top, button-down sleeveless shirt w/bottom hem tie, a halter dress, a one-shoulder effect draped dress w/sheer black organza combo, a draped skirtm, a maxi dress w/drawstring waist and a tiered gown with sheer black organza panels, which was the stunning closing look at the show.

Showstoppers include the Sasha Dress, featuring a foundation of black organza with Ivy covering only a small amount of the dress, and the Katy full length gown w/custom cut Ivy covering the bust, purple silk chiffon making up the fullness of the skirt and Ivy leaves hand sewn onto the skirt.  Additonal prints include a black & white Painted Stripe (hinting at Fraser-Swan's love of Tim Burton),  Stone Tweed in black & gray or purple & gray, a Black/White Swir Stripe, featuring marbled/water like effect, and a Black/White Checker Print.

The show featured music by The Misshapes, styling by Masha Orlov, scenery by Andrea Huelse, hair by Jorge Luis for PRIVE, make-up by Tia Hebron for Bobbi Brown Cosmetics, nails by Miss Pop Nails, Bing-Bang Jewelry, casting by Alina Zakaite, production, direction & PR by People's Revolution and shoes by Angela Scott. VIPs in the front row included Kate Nash, Emma Kenney (Actress, Shameless), Leigh Lezark and Rozzi Crane (new protege of Adam Levine), all wearing Emerson looks in the front row, as well as Philip Bloch, Talana Nicole, Eric West and more.

(Tuesday, 10 September 2013) | --


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